Tag Archives: ipoh food in old town

Musings on Food – SeeFoon gets environmentally friendly


musings on food - food reviewsBy See Foon Chan-Koppen

Nowadays, as a result of the popularity of the Ipoh Echo as ‘The Voice of the Ipoh Community’, my column appears to be widely read and perfect strangers come up to me at restaurants and eating places to either tell me that they have tried some of my recommendations, or to make some recommendations of their own.

Musings on Food - See Foon Chan-Koppen

My tailor Alan, while not a stranger to me, did just that recently when I went to him for some tailoring work. He pointed to a corner shop across the road (Ipoh Garden East past Citrus)  and asked me if I had eaten there. Always on the alert for new culinary delights, I jumped at the opportunity and pumped him for more information.

Faux Sharks Fin

Alan quickly reeled off a list of dishes that this restaurant Sam Poh is famous for and one dish made me prick up my ears. Faux (as in fake) Sharks fin that tastes like the real McCoy. Now I have always loved Sharks fin…yes you greenies out there…I am admitting to this heinous crime…but lately owing to pressure from friends, friends’ friends, and particularly, from friends’ children, I have not been ordering this dish. It does not mean that I can shut off the hankerings, so when Alan mentioned Faux Sharks fin, I felt compelled to satisfy my taste buds.

Musings on Food - See Foon Chan-KoppenMusings on Food - See Foon Chan-KoppenMusings on Food - See Foon Chan-KoppenMusings on Food - See Foon Chan-KoppenTwelve of us descended on Sam Poh one Sunday evening to find it busy to overflowing. As I had taken the trouble to book earlier, we found ourselves on the pavement at an extra large table complete with (oh what a treat!) red table cloth.

Corkage Charged

A sign posted on the wall warned us that alcohol brought to the premises would be charged a corkage fee per bottle. After much to-ing and fro-ing we agreed on being charged a flat fee of RM20 for all the bottles we brought, for which we were rewarded with two large bottles of water, ice and glasses.

The dishes arrived in rapid succession. Starting with the Fish Head curry, grouper head cut into chunks in a mild very tasty ‘lemak’ curry sauce, smooth with ladies fingers, and other vegetables. RM34. This was followed by the ‘Fatt Put’ a fried mashed taro basket filled to the brim with a mixture of vegetable – french beans, mushrooms, carrots. The yam basket was crisp on the bite and soft and smooth inside, the vegetables which are sauteed separately and then placed into the yam ring, were also crisp and full of ‘wok hei’ a sure sign of good Chinese stir fry. RM13.

The next dish to arrive was so scrumptious that we all unanimously voted to order a second portion. This was a large grilled squid, the tentacles crisped at the edges, the body gently charred to release that inimitable grilled squid fragrance, topped with a mildly flavoured abalone sauce. Utterly delectable. RM22 per portion. Egg plant with salted fish came next, well braised, with hints of salted fish flavours, RM9.

Almost the real McCoy

Pork belly slices, fried crispy and topped with a sweetish teriyaki/barbecue sauce was a hit at the table especially with the westerners who were with us that night. RM15. Then came the reason I was there in the first place: the Faux Sharks fin which came braised with silky bean curd and oyster mushrooms. I was expecting some soggy strands of jelly passing off as sharks fin but I was delightfully surprised to discover some thickish, quite springy strands of  look alikes that actually tasted almost like the real thing. The addition of black vinegar brought back memories of the bowls of the real stuff I used to eat in my pre-ecological days. A yummy ecological and economical substitute at RM12.

Another dish worthy of mention was the braised pork leg with pig’s tendons. Hints of Shao Tsing Chinese rice wine permeated the succulent chunks of meat, bones, tendons and skin; velvety smooth, gliding down one’s gullet with a slurp and a swallow. RM15.

The Ham Dan (salted egg) chicken was a tad on the salty side but nevertheless delectable, liberally coated with salted egg yolk that was more of a sauce than a batter. RM18. We finished our meal with one of the best Hokkien fried noodles, a dish I have not eaten in a very long time, Singapore being the only place where I’ve ever had it (other than when my mother used to do it). What is special about these yellow noodles which arrived looking very bland and anemic is the almost soupy consistency which in the best of traditions is usually fried with squid, pork belly and prawns and bean sprouts. The soupiness comes from prawn stock which lends its distinctive flavours to the whole dish. RM12.

All in, our bill for 12 people came to RM223 and as we left all groaning from the surfeit, we promised each other to return and do it all over again.

Sam Poh Restaurant
17 Persiaran Bandar Bahrun 16
Desa Tambun Indah
Tel.: 016 5516869 Elliza: 016 501 9345

SeeFoon gets adventurous in explorations of Old Town….


Issue 73- Musing On Food

SeeFoon gets adventurous in explorations of Old Town….

 The street turning off to the left as one crosses Kinta River travelling down Jalan Sultan Iskandar Shah (Hugh Low Street) is a fascinating part of Ipoh’s old town. Known as “Ham Yu Kai”or Salt Fish Street (Jalan Bijih Timah), this short stretch of about 300 metres has a row of sundry shops lined up consecutively, selling Chinese provisions and all the dried seafood like ikan bilis, dried shrimp, and salted fish. There used to be a market at the end of this street but this has dwindled down to a few stalls selling fresh produce in the early morning.

Towards the end of this street on the left is a small passage between two shop houses with a big sign that says Jalan Pasar Patrick. This leads into a small alley way lined on both sides by a row of zinc-roofed shacks leading to the banks of the Kinta River. Here at the end of the alley is a very popular local eatery with only a Chinese sign board Jiong Loi Fan Deem proudly displayed in red lettering proclaiming itself to be “the future rice shop”.

Not for the Squeamish

This is not a restaurant for the squeamish and if you’re expecting minimum restaurant standards, this is not the place for you.  Here you rub shoulders with the “hoi polloi” who generally know better than their well-off brethren, where a good meal is to be had at a good price, and if you make the mistake of arriving after 12 noon, you’ll have to wait in the sweltering heat at least half an hour for your food.

The day my Foodie friends and I were there, just coincidentally turned out to be one of the hottest days in the year. As I sat under the zinc roof inadequately serviced by both a ceiling and a revolving table fan, I was musing to myself that the food had better be worth the suffering in the heat.

Popular Cold Dish

An appetiser plate was served first, almost as a conciliatory gesture for the long wait ahead as we had arrived just as the full lunch crowd descended. This was their popular stewed pigs’ head cold dish, served with hardboiled eggs. The tasty morsels consisting primarily of the cheeks and ears braised in soya sauce, were tender and had just the right degree of saltiness, taking away the need for the chilli sauce which came with it. RM5 with two eggs.

The rest of the dishes finally arrived in rapid succession. First on the table was the bitter gourd with chicken, one of their signature dishes. Fu Gua Kai – RM10. This came in a black bean sauce, the bite-sized bitter gourd texture complementing the tender chicken pieces, and the sauce just pungent enough to mask the still remaining bitterness in the gourd.

This was followed by the leek with roasted pork. Siew Yoke Chao Suen – RM10. The leeks were thinly sliced and the roast pork’s crackling still “crackled”, which had me rudely trawling through the plate in search of more!

Grandma’s soup of the Day

The soup of the day was a marrow which is known in Chinese as “old cucumber” Lo Wong Kua, boiled with pork bones and meat – RM8.00. This is a very typical Cantonese home dish which brought back memories of the soups my grandmother used to make. This soup of the day will vary from watercress to lotus root to whatever else is available at the market in the morning. Many a traditional Chinese family will still have their children coming home to “drink soup” on Sundays even if they’re no longer living with their parents. This soup is usually left to boil for many hours and only ingredients which are known to be “cooling” are used for this type of soup.

Next came the Tao Fu Yu, steamed carp and soft bean curd in a sauce redolent with preserved soya bean sauce, mild chillies and garlic. As fresh water fish is not one of my favourites and this fish is also full of bones, I had one piece of the fish and concentrated on the bean curd. The taste was excellent though and had me wishing that they could have used another fish – RM12.

The next dish was the fried omelette with preserved radish or Chinese DaikonChoi Po Dan – RM7. This is the true staple dish, the dish that is ubiquitous in many a Chinese home kitchen when mother or grandma had insufficient dishes on the table. Tasty and just like I used to get it at home, with the radish in  bite-sized bits rather than the chopped variety one finds often in the market these days. And more importantly, they used the salty variety instead of the sweet one which I find cloying.

To finish off the meal, my nose had caught a whiff of belacan coming from the kitchen and I immediately demanded to know what it was. Fried Kang Kong, or water spinach as it is popularly known, fried with belacan was produced and promptly devoured with relish – RM5.

For 6 people, the total bill for all the dishes mentioned came to RM60. Another value-for-money meal for Cantonese home cooking par-excellence. A meal I couldn’t produce at home for the same number of people if I were to buy the ingredients and cook it myself.

Location:  Jalan Patrick Market, Off Jalan Bijih Timah, Old Town

Been operating more

 than 30 years

Operating time:  11:30am – 3:00pm